You're happy to see your cat when it comes in the house. However, you won't be so happy to see the little fellow travelers it can bring with it.
These little fellow travelers are flea eggs, which if left untreated, will eventually become adult fleas and a problem for both of you and your cat.
The problem with fleas – besides the annoying flea bites – are the diseases they can bring with them. It is estimated that the black plague, which was transmitted by fleas, killed almost one-quarter of Europe's population during the 14th century. They have also been responsible for epidemics in Egypt, Africa, China, India and even here in the United States. Fleas can also carry other diseases such as the bubonic plague and murine typhus.
The flea eggs that your cat brings into the house will soon turn into flea larva, then flea pupae, and finally, into adult fleas. When fleas reach the pupae stage, they spin silken cocoons, which are so tough, they can defeat almost any insecticide known to man. In fact, a flea pupae can live within these cocoons without eating for as long as a year. In most, cases fleas will go from eggs to adult fleas in about a month. However, during hot weather months the flea life cycle may be a short as two weeks.
Ridding Your Cat Of Fleas
Flea eggs are so small you will not be able to see them on your cat. This means that they will be on undetectable until they reach adulthood. At this time, they will begin biting your cat because fleas are bloodsuckers – they need the blood to live. The first sign you will probably see of a flea infestation will be your cat scratching itself almost constantly.
Unfortunately, this means that you probably have fleas in the house as well.
The first step in cat flea control will be to get rid of your cat's fleas. That way, adult female fleas cannot continue laying eggs, which will ultimately turn into more adult fleas.
There are a number of cat flea treatment options. Some of the most common are flea collars, flea sprays, flea powders, flea shampoos, flea pills and spot-on, topical flea treatments.
Most products containing fipronil or imidacloprid as their active ingredients will kill the fleas and have a relatively low toxicity.
Treating The Hot Spots
Once you have freed your cat of its fleas, you will need to turn your attention to your house. The first step here is to identify flea “hot spots” or those areas where your flea infested cat typically rests or sleeps. This would include your cat's bed and bedding. You will need to wash these regularly. Other flea hot spots can be rugs and furniture, as well as spots underneath the furniture.
You will need to vacuum your carpeting, rugs and furniture thoroughly and frequently. After you vacuum, be sure to promptly dispose of the vacuum bag or the contents of the vacuum by placing it in a sealed container such as a plastic bag. Steam cleaning of furniture and floor coverings will also help eliminate any remaining fleas.
Vacuum And Then Vacuum Some More
Vacuuming as a way to control fleas and flea eggs cannot be over emphasized. Vacuuming picks up all stages of the flea, which immediately reduces the flea population. Vacuuming also removes dirt, and spreads the fibers in your carpet to make it easier for pesticides to penetrate.
There are also products called flea traps, which can be useful. However, they work only in those areas where you have found or suspect there are adult fleas. These flea traps emit light and warmth – which attracts the fleas and then captures them on sticky inserts, which can be easily removed and replaced. Flea traps are a non-toxic way to pinpoint flea activity but by themselves will not eliminate a flea infestation.
Next Step – A Liquid Pesticide
After thoroughly vacuuming several times, the next step in cat flea control is to use a flea spray to kill fleas in your flea hot spots. Following this, you should apply a liquid pesticide. The pesticide you choose must have both an adulticide (to kills the fleas) and a growth regulator such as methoprene or pyriproxyfen. This way you will both kill the adult fleas and disrupt the flea's lifecycle so larva cannot develop into adult fleas – preventing future outbreaks.
Read The Instructions Carefully
If you use a liquid pesticide, be sure to first get your cat and any other pets (including birds) out of the house. If you have an aquarium, unplug its filters and air pumps, as fish are also very susceptible to these pesticides. Always be sure to carefully read the product label for directions and follow them exactly as given. You and your pets should stay off the treated surfaces until they are completely dry. After you treat these areas, you will need to vacuum them again as vacuuming triggers the emergence of fleas, which increases their exposure to the pesticide.
Is Your Yard Flea Infested?
One way to find out is to put on a pair of white, knee-high athletic socks and walk around your yard. If you find tiny black specs standing out against the white of the socks, you will know your yard is flea infested and you may need to continue your cat flea control efforts into your yard.
If you feel you need to treat your entire yard, start off by mowing it. Then remove any debris or furniture in your yard, as fleas like to hide in dark humid places.
You can use just about any insecticide that will kill fleas and that includes an insect growth regulator such as methoprene or pyriproxyfen. Most of the outdoor insecticides available at your lawn and garden store or Home Depot can be applied with a hose sprayer.
A natural cat flea control alternative to these insecticides is Diatomaceous earth. It is a natural product you spread on your lawn. It will slice through the coat of the flea's body, causing it to become dehydrated and then die.
Cat Flea Control
If your cat and your home have fleas it is time to get serious about cat flea control. Having a pet and home free of fleas is worth the effort.
Next >> Cat Flea Medicine